Missoula, Montana

First things first: people who live in Missoula love Missoula, an attitude that permeates just about every aspect of the community. From the uber-happy employee at a natural foods store, carting lettuce to and from the salad bar (did I mention he has a Ph.D. in forestry?), to the young mom carpooling her kids to the town’s very own ski hill, to the cabinet maker who ditched pressed shirts and a steady gig in computers for Carhartt jeans and the joy of not knowing when he’ll next work, but a pretty good idea of when he’ll next kayak.

This is Missoula: A groovy town of approximately 65,000 well-educated people who’d rather be here than anywhere else. “There’s no place like home,” is a mantra locals (also known as Missoulians) seem to have inscribed on the sunvisors of their ubiquitous Subaru wagons. Imagine how happy you’d be if you lived in what you perceived to be the best place on earth. Heck, why not take a vacation there (summer or fall are recommended) and let that warm, fuzzy feeling wash over you.

Missoula is the town immortalized in the film, “A River Runs Through it,” and indeed it does: the Clark Fork River rolls smack-dab through the center of downtown, providing an endless play spot for watercraft (the town has its own kayak play park), tubing, fly-fishing or simply splashing.

Hike to the “M,” along a steep, switchback trail that starts on the University of Montana campus, climbing for nearly three-quarters of a mile and gaining 620 feet. It provides a spectacular, albeit heart-thumping, view of the valley and surrounding area.

City Lights. If you can’t summon the energy for a hike but long for the views, drive south on Higgins Avenue all the way to the foothills (just a few miles). Turn left on Pattee Canyon Drive, then take a quick right on Whitaker. Climb to The Keep restaurant for another killer view. If you have your golf clubs, play the fun 9-hole, par-3 Highlands golf course, then head into the restaurant for an impressive meal and unparalleled views of the city lights.

Head to the Rattlesnake. Missoula is the only city in the country with a wilderness area within town limits. The Rattlesnake is nearly 33,000 acres of wilderness, with miles of trails perfect for walking, hiking, mountain biking and, in the colder months, cross-country skiing. Time it right and you might catch a glimpse of deer, owls, black bear or even mountain lion.

Pattee Canyon. Another hiking, biking, skiing destination within town limits.

Blue Mountain is the local hangout for hikes with dogs. The law requires dogs to be on leash, but shhhhhh…the reality is a free-for-all, with dogs romping, playing, sniffing and being, well, dogs. Great views of the river and surrounding mountains will please non-canine members of the family.

Cast a Rod. There are plenty of fly-fishing shops in Missoula where you can learn the fine art of casting. Now, if only Brad Pitt were here to teach.

Float/Raft. Do the Rocky Mountain version of a day at the beach and rent inner tubes downtown at the Army-Navy store on Higgins. Head up Highway 200 to reach Johnsrud Park on the Blackfoot River, where you can begin a float through miles of pristine wilderness. Or, book a whitewater rafting trip with any number of local outfitters for an adrenaline-surging adventure complete with guides and lunch.

(Need outdoor gear? Visit Pipestone Mountaineering or The Trailhead, both located downtown).

Out to Lunch. Live music, eclectic food, and a scene to be seen is what Out to Lunch is all about. During warmer months, grab lunch from any number of restaurants who set up stalls in Caras Park on Wednesdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Then hang out on the grassy lawn or park benches for people-watching at its finest.

Farmer’s and People’s Markets. Open mid-May through mid-October, Missoula’s two farmer’s markets (anchoring both ends of downtown) and its People’s Market (arts, crafts, jewelry, and more) make getting up early on a Saturday morning worthwhile. Do it like a local and pedal to the markets, canvas bags in tow. Bike rentals are available downtown at Missoula Bicycle Works.

First Friday. Take in some art on a stroll of downtown galleries and shops on the first Friday of each month. Galleries, shops and boutiques stay open late (most until 8 p.m.) to welcome you with wine, cheese and art. Be sure to swing by the recently renovated and expanded Missoula Art Museum.

Eat/Drink

Scotty’s Table. One of my absolute favorites in Missoula. Owner Scott Gil has created an intimate restaurant with an impressive menu and great wine list. His culinary approach to steaks, seafood and pasta is always creative and the inclusion of such unexpected fare as Coq Au Vin (love it) and Cioppino make for a memorable dining experience. Add in a knowledgeable and attentive wait staff, and you have the makings of a great evening (or lunch). Gil’s menu changes with the seasons, taking advantage of local, organic produce and foods. Featured wines and daily specials always impress (come with an appetite. You’ll want to sample it all). Try the mussels. They are absolutely to-die-for (and this coming from a girl who grew up on the coast). Located on the ground floor of the Wilma Theatre. Patio seating provides views of the Clark Fork River, Caras Park and the surrounding foothills.

Red Bird. My other go-to restaurant. Kick back with a glass of wine and small plates in the new wine bar. The ambiance is hip without being over the top. Or reserve a table in the adjacent restaurant for a meal worthy of your full attention. Montana has some weird liquor laws and, as a result, many restaurants have only a beer and wine license. Fortunately, the Red Bird boasts one of the best wine menus in town and a pretty fine beer selection, too (my husband digs the variety of brews served here).

Speaking of beer, Missoula has more than its fair share of local breweries. Not to be missed are the Kettlehouse (Must Have: the Cold Smoke Scotch Ale) and Bayern Brewing, the only German microbrewery in the Rockies.

Blue Canyon Kitchen & Tavern. Perfect for lunch, dinner or Sunday brunch - with live jazz, no less).  Reserve the Chef’s Table for a sumptuous four- or five-course meal. Bring your friends. It seats up to 10. Love wine? Owner/Chef Brandt Evans travels the world to meet personally and partner with renowned international winemakers. The result is a handcrafted line of wines that pair perfectly with menu items (and most everything else, too).

Catalyst. A super groovy stop for lunch or Sunday breakfast. Time it right and you’ll find an intriguing art exhibit gracing the little shop’s walls.

Good Food Store. Missoula’s take on the ubiquitious Whole Foods Market invasion. Sandwiches, soups, pizza and an array of prepared salads and vegetarian options make for a healthy and affordable meal. Not to be missed: Tipu’s Chai, by far the yummiest, spiciest chai tea I have ever had the pleasure of sipping (gulping?).

Biga Pizza. Gourmet pizza even the kids will love. Bring your own beer and wine. But be forewarned: It’s often loud and crowded, with parents and staff seemingly nonchalant about kids running amok. The upside? Your kids may fit right in. Hey, it’s their vacation, too.

Kids

Carousel for Missoula. Hand-carved and built by the community, the carousel is among the fastest in the nation. It’s also gorgeous, exhilarating and ideal for all ages. Located downtown on the banks of the Clark Fork River.

Dragon Hollow. Castles, tunnels, slides and dragons. What kid can resist this? More than a play area, Dragon Hollow is an adventure for youngsters, particularly those needing to let off some vacation-induced, too-much-sightseeing-and-shopping steam.

Big Dipper Ice Cream. No trip to Missoula would be complete without a scoop or two of the town’s award-winning Big Dipper Ice Cream. Yes, the lines are often long (even in the winter. It’s that good), but it’s so worth the wait. Owner Charlie Beaton serves up the expected (vanilla, chocolate, bubblegum) and the unexpected (Pumpkin, Raspberry Pink Champagne Sorbet, Honey Porter).  Shakes, sundaes and malts round out the offerings.

Shopping

For a little town, Missoula has some pretty big shopping.

Miss Zulas is a popular spot for hip, urban clothing, fun jewelry and interesting purses, hats, board games and artwork. Classic and funky themes are equally at home here. You will be, too.

Coco Atelier and sister shoe store, Rue, carry high-end pieces such as party dresses, cashmere sweaters and designer jeans. Dig through the sales racks for some killer deals. (I purchased a $300 cashmere sweater for less than $80.)

Red Rooster Trading Company. This gourmet kitchen and home store carries an impressive array of linens, dishware, stemware, cookware and gourmet foods. Missoulians obviously like to entertain in style.

Betty’s Divine. Shoppers looking for anything but mall-like clothing flock to Betty’s Divine, with its selection of cool clothing and accessories. Selling itself as “a fresh, contemporary, creative and edgy boutique with a focus on local, regional and international designers,” Betty’s offers killer shopping and great ambiance (for those who like their music loud).

Zoe. The perfect stop for the perfect gift (who says you can’t give yourself a fancy little something every now and then?). Bath salts and soaps, note cards, glassware, candles, and furniture all find their way into this fine little shop. With a Parisian flair and a nod to antiques, Zoe shouldn’t be missed.

Rockin Rudy’s. It wouldn’t be Missoula without this quirky landmark shop. Looking for the perfect birthday card? Find it here, no matter how racy or sentimental you aim to be. How about a bumper sticker announcing to the world your political affiliation (lean left while in Missoula)? Or, maybe what you seek is a cool piece of jewelry for your favorite sister. It’s all here, along with gag gifts, laugh-out-loud refrigerator magnets, T-shirts and clothing, CDs, toys, candles and all manner of knickknack paddy whacks.

Posh Chocolat. When chocolate is this good, it deserves a mention under the shopping header. We’ve talked about Posh Chocolat before (catch our Christmas Must Haves episode) and the culinary craftsmanship of owners Ana and Jason Willenbrock. Stop in for an impressive selection of artisan truffles (lavender, fennel pollen, cardamom, South American dark), sipping chocolate, exotic caramels and origin bars. Sandwiches and soup make this a great lunch stop, too.

Lodging

Downtown, on the river
Holiday Inn Parkside
Doubletree Hotel

Reserve St. (just off Highway 90, near Target and Costco, and easy access via car to Snowbowl Ski Area and downtown).
Hilton Garden Inn

Not to be Missed
If you’re in Missoula, you’re not far from Glacier National Park, the crown jewel of the continent. Rugged, pristine and still boasting glaciers, the Park is among the country’s finest. The scenic three-hour drive from Missoula offers two routes: head north on 93 along the west side of Flathead Lake all the way to the mountain resort town of Whitefish, stopping in historic Kalispell for lunch. Or, follow Montana Route 35 along the lake’s east side where loads of cherry trees dot the landscape. Travel the route in early spring and you’ll find plenty of fluffy blossoms filling out the tree branches. Travel a few months later when the blooms are gone and you’ll be rewarded with succulent fruit. If you’ve saved room for lunch, make the lakeside town of Bigfork your mid-day destination. Either way, carve out the extra day or two for this side trip. You’ll be happy you did.